Sunday, March 9, 2014

Jungle Part 2

I expected we would be traveling like this of course
After my first night of jungle sleep, I ignored the advice of our guide given the night before to wear long pants, and put on some shorts and my rain jacket for today's adventures. After a nice filling breakfast our small group (myself, a US family, an Ecuadorean family, and a few Ecuadorean couples) headed down to the river to start down it by canoe. Now of course I thought we would be doing the work but "canoe" really means "covered narrow motor boat that can fit 16".

the river was full of rapids and
dangerous obstacles (probably
better I wasn't steering myself)














So we piled in two by two to jet down the Napo River. Our first stop was in the town of Misahualli. This is also known as the monkey town. Now let's not forget an important aspect of this weekend. It was carnival. That means things were a bit busier/crazier than normal. This part of the jungle has Capuchin Monkeys (I of course always want to call them cappuccino monkeys...)

all the "canoes" docked to see the monkeys
as soon as we docked there were bunches of people selling
these cans of scented mousse that get sprayed everywhere
as part of the partying. NO ONE WAS SAFE!

Of course the monkeys have become performers to some extent and love to be food such as bananas or grapes like in the picture below. Similar to though not nearly as wonderful as Monkey Forest in Ubud Bali (see the saga of those cheeky monkeys here.)



the journey along the river was
beautiful
Post "monkey town" we headed down the river a ways to go to AmaZOOnico, which is a reserve for many animals. This is not typically the type of place that I would choose to go myself, but it was part of my deal, so I figured why not since we weren't as deep in the jungle as we could be it would allow me to see more wild life. I will say that  I really do appreciate AmaZOOnico's way of doing things, which is to say they are not a zoo, but a huge wildlife reserve, and they are able to release about a quarter of their rescued animals back into the wild after a time. AmaZOOnico is a popular volunteer site for people from all over the world. Our particular guide was from Germany (his spanish was around the level of mine, but he did extremely well. I would have been WAY more nervous. Ecuadoreans are very helpful and kind to us Spanish-struggling gringos.) 

AmaZOOnico began the section of our journey which
required the hard core rain-boots provided by the lodge
always great signs



toucans need to eat too

croc peaking out

log o' turtles



two adorable kissing kitties
I will say I was disappointed that I didn't get to see a capybara, which is really just a HUGE guinea pig. The guide said that they had some on the reserve but they were in the covered jungle area when we were where they were kept (as I said it's nice that this place isn't a full on ZOO, but that means I missed out on my capybara experience).

After we had been shown many animals we continued on our own adventure led by our guide from the lodge, Marco. it was a single file hike and we CLIMBED (this hike was the real reason we needed the boots, though it was nothing compared to the next day...but we'll get there..)
Marco found us a tiny frog at the beginning

 Of course the jungle is full of HUGE trees (with root spans that are larger than my room in Quito...). As you can see in the picture below...I am just standing in the roots. 

Parts of the hike were a bit more difficult than others, such as the moment pictured below, which was more like a direct vertical climb than a leisurely nature walk.


Of course getting to the top provided an extremely worthwhile view. On the way down Marco was literally hacking through vines with his machete so that we could follow the path. The real jungle experience. 
and now we see why we need the boots...
as I said, nothing compared with what is to come
showing us how the roofs are made


After our completed hike, we got back in the boat to go across the river and stop for a nice picnic lunch. We had arroz con camarones (rice with shrimp), salad, an apple, and of course can't forget desert...OREOS. The plates provided made me feel like I was eating out of a (square) frisbee (and yes we do that).








Misahualli was in full swing Carnival party mode as we headed back up the river. We passed it and headed to our final destination for the day, which was a traditional Kichua village. Marco was from this village, which was now mostly woman, as the men had gone off to work. 

When we first got there we were shown how they get gold from the dirt (this process and a huge amount of earth resulted in one SPEC of gold, quite a long process...). We then walked up into the village and Marco taught us how to use the blow dart and we did some target practice.

one of my new skills
We then watched the process of yuca chicha being made. This is a typical drink made out of fermented yuca. Next we had a demonstration of the way the famous pottery is made (one of its uses being to drink chicha out of, as pictured below).


there are all sorts of natural dyes used as paints
We returned to the lodge after this for dinner of tilapia steamed in a banana leaf (similar to Bali's but not curried like theirs is).

Lesson learned...wear long pants in the jungle...but it's just TOO HOT, but not for the mosquitos....

Thursday, March 6, 2014

Welcome to the Jungle! (part 1)

Hello all! I realize it has been long time no blog for me. My first few weeks back I tried to do some exploring, but never got around to blogging, and then my position as Social Media Captain for Sawah Bali (see my earlier post here) really began to take over. We have been working hard to start our crowd funding campaign as well as getting together the first news letter. Oh and I still have my day job of teaching too...

no electricity has never made
me more thankful for
my headlamp
As many of you may know, I will be returning back to the US in just two weeks now (at the end of this cycle). Before my time with Ecuador comes to an end, I tried to make a sort of Ecua-bucket list, or really places I felt I needed to see before I left.

This past weekend was Carnival meaning that we had a long weekend. I decided I would take this opportunity to get back into NATURE! I planned myself a trip to the jungle. I found an amazing jungle lodge called Cotococha right outside of Tena, which is about 5 hrs (by bus) east of Quito. This lodge has no electricity in the cabins and no wifi, so it sounded like just what I needed. (Though I would have liked to go deeper into the jungle, the four days off wasn't enough time to go out to a place that would involve about 10 hours of travel each way.) The saga of booking could be another blog post all together, feel free to ask if you really want all the (typical) details (of struggle).

I was extremely excited for my vacation. We had work on Friday, so I decided to leave very early Saturday morning. Turns out this was totally the way to do it since travel was CRAZY on Friday with everyone trying to escape the city (most people head to the beach for Carnival). I arrived at the south bus station around 6:30 and was able to hop on a 7:00 am bus direct to Tena.

I had typical bus company. A few screaming children, people trying to sell things, and my personal favorite: the woman and her teeny black toy poodle sitting next to me who I watched share breakfast.

I got to Tena around 11:45 (we made really good time, minimal traffic luckily), and before heading off to the lodge I went in search of some food. I will say it's a completely different feeling wandering around in one of the smaller cities. With my big back pack and painfully pasty white skin. I clearly stick out as a tourist, but there is not the same type of anxiety you feel when in Quito. I wandered up a main street for a while and found a small shop where I got a yuca pastry filled with cheese and a HUGE orange/carrot juice. This is when I was reminded of how EXPENSIVE living in Quito is (in comparison to the smaller cities that is). After I hopped in a cab (once again, any cab is safe, not the same sense of big city danger) and took a 20 minute ride to my secluded jungle lodge.

When I arrived I was greeted by the very small and friendly staff. I was given the whole lowdown (they asked English or Spanish, I said Spanish. It was a good weekend of practice!) I was shown to my cabin and told that if I wanted to shower I should use the biodegradeble products available to me (part of the reason I chose this place was because of how ecologically friendly it seemed).

I was exhausted from my week and all my early mornings so naturally the first thing I did was take a nap...


...but then I woke up and decided it would be a good time for me to take the self-guided walk around the grounds. I walked down the river (about 50 steps from my cabin, though I did not have one of the cabins ON the water), and then headed into the jungle. It felt so good to breath in REAL air again!

Of course there were some questionable parts of the path, not limited to the "bridge" above, but over all it was a nice little loop.


I will truly miss the creative translations
I headed back to my cabin to grab my kindle (that and my camera were the technology I brought with me), and headed into the main meeting area to settle into seat before dinner and get some reading done. The noises proved we were truly in the jungle, but natural noises are so much easier to deal with than honking cars and sirens!

Dinner was at 7:30 each night. The food was always very beautifully presented. The first night I ate turkey, which I considered to be extremely un-Ecuadorean, but good none the less!
After going to bed at 9 (ohhh it felt SOOO good), and being woken up in the middle of the night by POURING rain (in the jungle for sure), I woke up at 7 the next morning for breakfast (all meals included as part of the weekend) to go on my first day of adventure in the jungle...

Sunday, January 19, 2014

Shameless Promotion of Sawah Bali




As many of you may be aware, my mom Phyllis (Phiphi) Kaplan has moved to Bali, Indonesia full time to start an NGO called Sawah Bali.

Being Social Media Captain (as I have been named) I feel it is my job to promote this wonderful cause through any means that I have. Check it out! Read about it! Like us on our Facebook page!

Some Food Porn for Your Viewing Pleasure

Today is my friend Anna's birthday. A few months ago we had stumbled upon this great little restaurant (right at the top of the hill to go down to Guapulo) called Warmi. We happened to come upon it on a Sunday around 1, and discovered their fabulous brunch menu and artisan beer! They also sell many types of jams, sauces, honeys, spices, teas, deserts and more, which are all locally made (many in house!) We were informed that they also do nice SEVEN COURSE DINNERS with WINE (reservation only) on the weekends. I am very glad Anna decided it would be a good place for her birthday dinner last night!

I promise to try to remember what everything is and describe it so that you ALMOST can taste it (I wish I could eat it again that's for sure!)

1. We started out with an avocado, tomato, and pepper salad, topped with arugula, and with a acidic tomato lime broth poured over it.


2. Next came roasted tomato, eggplant, and a portobello mushroom, topped with prosciutto and asparagus and balsamic reduction.

3. Seared tuna with a peppercorn crust and homemade mustard. 


4. Tuna tartar with MINT mixed in. Also topped in the homemade balsamic reduction. I too was skeptical at first of the tuna/mint combo, but WOW was it delicious!


5. I will admit by this point I was SO EXCITED about the food I spaced out and didn't fully listen...but this was fish marinated in herbs and on top of mashed...well it was delicious.

6. Now we were unsure if it was going to be 6 or 7 courses, so this was exciting when it came out. We also agreed that we were all a bit hungry, that is until we were served RISOTTO! This was a cheesy fish risotto served with shrimp. Yes it looks like mac and cheese, and honestly it sort of tasted that way too and was ABSOLUTELY DELICIOUS!

7. Finally we made it to our 7th course. This desert was homemade yogurt on the bottom and then a chocolate cookie and...honestly I don't remember what was on top. It was really good though, and not too sweet, which was perfect. 

It was by far the fanciest meal I have had here in Quito. Everything was extremely fresh and well prepared, and it was nice to return to my foodie roots!

A return to Ecuador

After 4 lovely weeks of vacation, bouncing around from California, to Vermont, Boston, Bard and NYC, and seeing more people from all walks of life than I could have planned on seeing, I am back in Quito to continue teaching.

It was rough to get back into the swing of things at first, but I definitely feel like I have learned a lot since last cycle. I have recycled my lesson plans, while changing them in certain places to make them more effective. I have 3 new classes (so about 45 new students). It will be a new challenge, but I feel much more prepared! 

Last weekend I went on a small adventure down to Guapulo, which is a small section of Quito set down a hill. One of the most famous parts of Guapulo is the church pictured below. From my apartment to the top of the hill where the road starts is about a 15 minute walk.


The walk down is a windy cobblestone road, but it is full of impressive graffiti at every turn. The road is lined with businesses. There are actually quite a few artists co-ops down this way. The walk back up was ROUGH. My lungs lost their 10,000 ft conditioning!


The church was closed to the public for the day, but the entry way was still open.




And alas, one of the best ways to remind me that I am back in Quito is that THE FRIDGE IS BROKEN AGAIN!!!!!! By now I have become a master, and here is a creation of a lentil stew/soup with zucchini, purple sweet potato, and tomatoes. It got covered in sriracha sauce, which is one of the few food items (including maple syrup and earl grey tea) that I brought back with me because it was simply too hard to live without. 


Thursday, November 28, 2013

Happy Thanksgiving from Ecuador!

I didn't know what to expect when I knew I would be spending Thanksgiving in Ecuador, but Fulbright threw us quite the swanky Thanksgiving feast.

when we first walked in we were greeted with these adorable turkey pins!
there was lots of salad, which is always exciting here!

and then of course there were all the traditional Thanksgiving dishes

and WAY more kinds of desert than any one could imagine!

of course we tried to take a nice group picture...dysfunctional as always

and here are Chuckie's angels



Happy Thanksgiving everyone!